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Stephen Stewart

About Stephen Stewart

https://elslandscapeaz.com

Posts by Stephen Stewart:

fungal death

Verticillium and Cinnamon Mold Detected Throughout Phoenix Area

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If you’ve noticed the sudden and rapid death of many trees across the Valley this summer, you’re not alone. We went from an extremely wet cool season to an extremely hot and dry warm season this year. Extreme weather patterns like these often cause weakened immune systems in non-native plant species, which lead to the current situation.

Recent soil tests by plant pathologist Dr. Jared Wheeler have revealed the
culprits for the most recent wave of rapid tree death: Verticillium and
Cinnamon Fungus (Phytopthora cinnamomi). Verticillium is a fungal
disease that stops vascular flow in non-native trees planted in soils with high clay content, especially on grounds that were previously farmland.
Phytophthora cinnamomi is a highly contagious “devastation mold” which
causes the rapid decay of root systems in soil with poor drainage.

Many tree and shrub species are affected, but this year, the biggest victims are Chinese Pistache, Elms, Catalpas, Olives, and Oaks. This disease is almost always fatal, and affected trees must be removed. We will soon be presenting bids for soil treatment with sulfur and/or gypsum to decrease microbial buildup in future plantings.’

While Verticilium Wilt and Phytopthora Cinnamomi are the most visible diseases affecting trees this summer, they are not the only ones found in Arizona soils.

Earlier this year, we dealt with cases of Slime Flux, especially on Elm and Ash Trees. Texas Root Rot is a common killer of trees and shrubs in soil with poor drainage. The table below, provided by Dr. Jared Wheeler, shows a list of some common microbial killers of trees in the Phoenix area.

Trees that are not native to the Sonoran Desert are generally at higher a risk of catching diseases, since they are not in their natural ecosystems and are thus are more likely to have weakened immune systems during extreme weather. We are currently removing affected trees and planning our
strategies for soil treatment and tree replacement.

For more information about Tree Diseases:
Verticillium in Pistachios (in an Agricultural Context)
https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1930-2021.pdf
Information on Cinnamon Fungus, aka. Phytopthora cinnamomi (PDF Download)
https://gd.eppo.int/download/doc/199_datasheet_PHYTCN.pdf
ALCA’s Presentation on Common Arizona Tree Diseases
https://www.azlca.com/uploads/documents/part-ii-diseases-disorders.pdf
Pinal Central Article on Verticillium Habits (written during a 2018 outbreak)
https://www.pinalcentral.com/home_and_hearth/gibson-verticillium-wilt-disease-devastating-to-many-
plants/article_d7ce35d6-7db3-519d-8f43-61b97947ad5c.html

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The Tuna Can Test: How Efficient Are Your Sprinklers?

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Irrigation sprinklers for turf typically spray out in one direction, in ranges of 30, 60, 90, 180, 270, or 360 degrees, depending on the brand and model. Many sprinklers automatically rotate with water pressure to reach even more surface area. How do you know if your sprinklers are covering as much of the surface area of your turf as possible with as little overlap as possible?

The Tuna Can Test

Let’s say you have some yellow patches in your grass and you want to know what’s going on. The first thing you should check is the water. The easiest method to check the efficacy and efficiency of your turf sprinkler system is often called the “Tuna Can Test” or “Catch Can Test.” The name comes from your very scientific tool of measurement: any short, wide, cylindrical container heavy enough to not be knocked over by spraying water. Emptied tuna cans work perfectly for this purpose.

Take as many tuna cans as you have (preferably at least two dozen for an accurate test) and lay them out evenly spaced in all directions across your experiment’s testing area. Maybe put a rock inside each one to help weigh them down in case birds or bunnies get curious. Numbering each can and drawing yourself a little graph might be helpful for later.

Let your irrigation cycle run. As soon as the sprinkler cycle ends, head outside. Check the depth of water in each can by putting them on a level surface one at a time (without forgetting your spot) and reading the depth with a ruler. Some cans may have significantly less water than others. Others you may only be able to tell by measurement.

Extra water means that there is too much overlap in the range of two or more of your sprinkler heads at their current angles. Too little water means, unsurprisingly, that your sprinkler heads may be missing an area entirely. The perfect turf space has equal water in every tuna can. Remedial action only needs to be taken if certain parts of your lawn are visibly in poorer condition than others.

This test is a great first step for troubleshooting issues with your lawn. Perhaps the yellowing in your grass was actually from overwatering when you assumed that it was underwatering, or vice versa. Now is the time to tweak the angles of your sprinklers to be more even, or to realize that your water pressure is inadequate in a certain section of your yard. If tweaking your water delivery doesn’t help after a month, you’ll know that there are other problems afoot. Nitrogen deprivation, thatch buildup, salt buildup, and poor drainage are things to investigate next. At least you’ll know from the Tuna Can Test that water isn’t the underlying issue!

ELS Maintenance regularly checks for sprinkler coverage at every community under our care in order to assure the healthiest turf possible. If you know of a community or commercial property looking for a new landscaping company, email us at [email protected] and we’ll get started!

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Dethatching Defined – Improving Arizona Turf in the Late Summer

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Dethatching Defined

It’s August, and your summer Bermudagrass should have grown in nicely by now. If it is still looking thin and patchy with areas of brown in between, your turf may be suffering the effects of too much thatch accumulation. Another good indication of thatch buildup is that the grass has a bouncy feel when you walk on it. In Arizona, overseeded turf is prone to thatch because the grass plants die back twice a year, and that dead material accumulates as thatch. Add dethatching to your summer turf care routine.

The purpose of dethatching is to remove that layer of built-up organic matter to restore some breathing room to the soil surface. The organic matter can consist of decomposing grass plants, tree droppings and insects or animal waste, but mostly uncollected grass clippings and living and dead Bermudagrass stolons and rhizomes.

But, wait a minute. Shouldn’t organic matter be beneficial to the soil and turfgrass plants? Yes, indeed. As organic matter decomposes, carbon, nitrogen and other important elements are released that are necessary for plant growth. Organic matter at the soil surface also forms a barrier against weed germination and serves to minimize water evaporation and protect grass against frost damage. So why would we need to remove the thatch?

A layer of thatch is beneficial to a penetrable thickness of about one-half inch. More than that, and the thatch becomes an impermeable barrier to delivering air, water and nutrients to the soil layer and then down to the grass roots beneath. A thatch layer that is too thick can also harbor pests and detrimental fungi. Thatch can accumulate quickly if you overwater, overfertilize or have heavy clay soil.

Thatch buildup causes thin, patchy grass with areas of brown in between. To be sure that thinness is due to thatch, use your fingers or a screwdriver to dig down between the grass blades until you touch the hard soil surface to roughly measure the depth of the thatch layer. Just an inch or so of thatch is going to have a damaging effect on your grass.

You can dethatch your lawn any time of year that the average nighttime temperature is above 60 degrees. This can be as soon as March or April in Arizona. To dethatch your lawn, you can always do it the old-fashioned way, using a sturdy steel rake. Or, you can rent a verticutter/power rake machine. Either way, be sure to clean up all of the debris that gets raked up so it doesn’t settle back in between the grass blades when you next water. Then apply the appropriate rate of fertilizer (see our blog post) to help the grass fill in the newly exposed bare spots.

Even if you dethatch your lawn, take steps to prevent it from happening too quickly again. Recalculate the correct rates of water and fertilizer you should be applying. There are online tools that can help you with both, like AMWUA’s Landscape Watering by the Numbers. Overall, no single action you take is enough to keep your grass healthy. It’s the combination of cutting, watering, fertilizing, aerating, dethatching and weeding that keeps grass looking great and growing well.

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What’s That Crusty Buildup on my Arizona Irrigation Drip?

Have you ever looked at your yard on a hot Arizona summer day only to notice that one of your plants is suddenly wilted and dying after being perfectly fine for years? One of the most common problems we experience with our drip irrigation systems in the Valley of the Sun is the eventual, and often inevitable, buildup and eventual clogging of the drips at the end of spaghetti lines by minerals.

Why Does This Happen?

The buildup of minerals on drip emitters is a problem across the world, though this problem is especially severe in the Sonoran Desert and other dry parts of the United States. Why does this happen, though?

First of all, most of the time the minerals that accumulate on drips are calcium carbonate and other simple salts. These minerals are found in trace amounts in most water supplies as part of the natural world. These salts deposit more with higher pH, and Arizona’s alkaline soil creates alkaline water, leading to more calcium buildup wherever possible. Add onto that the fact that most of our water comes from canals and goes through pretty heavy treatment before being dispersed to residential neighborhoods, and you end up with a lot of dissolved calcium carbonate. It’s not harmful to animals, in fact, if you’ve ever eaten a TUMS or other antacid, you’re consuming about 1000 milligrams of calcium carbonate per tablet. It’s easily soluble in water, which leads to the problem with getting water to plants.

As the temperature increases during the spring and summer, the rate of evaporation increases rapidly. As water evaporates faster, any trace amounts of calcium carbonate and other salts lingering on a drip emitter at the end of the scheduled watering cycle will be more likely to stick to the emitter rather than fall to the ground. Repeat this cycle over and over again as spring turns to summer, with an already heightened level of salts in the water to begin with… and by mid-June, you’ve probably got some clogs if you haven’t paid attention.

What Can Be Done About It?

Unfortunately, there’s not really a permanent solution to this issue as long as we continue using drip irrigation. There’s always going to be a mineral presence in our water supply, especially in Arizona. Our Maintenance Crews make sure to check drips for clogging regularly to prevent problems from arising. In your own yard, the best casual strategy to prevent clogging is to go out to as many drips as you can find and twist the adjustable knobs to break apart potential buildup. Other than that, you’d have to find a way to change the pH of the water. This is a challenge that Arizona communities have been contending with for a long time, to varying degrees of success. With planning and approval by community boards, we sometimes offer sulfuric acid dilutions to decrease pH for community water supplies, thus decreasing salt accumulation. But for your home, unless you have a personal well, you’ll likely have to go through your local government for any inquiries into decreasing the pH of the local water supply.

Overall, the buildup of calcium carbonate and other salts is a part of life for anything relating to Arizona water. It can cause these clogs, and it can even cause absorption and evapotranspiration issues for many plant species, even native ones. That’s why we apply gypsum to turf spaces – gypsum reacts with salt buildups and breaks them down, allowing for water, air, and other nutrients to flow.

ELS Maintenance makes sure all community’s drip emitters are regularly unclogged and does whatever it can to lessen the frequency of future buildup. If you know of a community or commercial property looking for a new landscaping company, email us at [email protected] and we’ll get started!

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Leave Young Trees Staked Through Monsoon Season

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The heavy winds characteristic of summer monsoon storms in Arizona threaten to damage young trees. Young trees have often not developed trunk strength or a root system extensive enough to withstand the winds. We therefore stake them to protect them not only from wind, but also from people, traffic, equipment, animals and other hazards.

Stake Your Tree for No More Than a Year

Most any type or size of tree, however, is only going to need support stakes through the monsoon season plus one or two growing seasons (spring or autumn) before or after. After no more than a year, remove the stakes entirely and backfill their holes with soil.

Stake with the Right Materials

Commercially grown trees often come with a stake tied tightly to the trunk. Even if the tree came this way from a nursery, remove the stake. When you plant the nursery tree in the ground, change the staking method to the one we describe here, which will be loosely looped around the trunk to allow the tree to sway in any direction. A tree should never been constricted around its trunk.

In place of any nursery stake, use two wooden poles measuring 6-to 8-feet long and 2- to 3-inches in diameter. You will also need two 18- to 20-inch segments of garden hose or smooth, pliable rubber tubing that won’t damage the tree bark and 2 lengths of heavy-duty wire about 5-feet long, enough to reach from pole to pole and wrap around one another to tie off.

Place Your Stakes

First, figure out the direction the wind usually blows. Best practice is to position the lodge poles standing straight up and positioned in line with the wind, 180 degrees from each other on either side of the tree. That means that if wind typically blows from the south, the two lodge poles would be placed 180 degrees from each other in the south and north positions.

Position the poles 6 inches outside of the root ball and drive them into the ground to a depth of about 2 feet. More importantly, drive the stakes far enough into the ground that they do not extend up into the tree’s canopy and thereby damage swaying branches or foliage.

Support the Trunk with Loose Ties

Slide the wire through the hose pieces and position them against the tree trunk. Attach each end of both wires to both poles so that they meet on either side. Set the height of the wire just below the lowermost canopy branches. Twist the wire ends together on the outside of the stake. Cut off any excess wire ends for safety.

Inspect the Staking Every Few Months

Check your stakes every few months to be sure that only the rubber tubing is gently in contact with the tree trunk. Be sure that the staking is not constricting the tree trunk in any way. A staked tree should still be able to move somewhat within the tie.

Leave Low Branches on the Tree

Avoid pruning a young tree while it is staked, unless branches are dead or damaged to avoid pest and disease infestations. Leave lower branches on the trunk for the first year as well to help protect the trunk from sunburn.

Remove the Stakes

Again, remove the stakes entirely after 1-2 growing seasons, after the danger of monsoon has passed and after no longer than a year. Remove low branches. Learn more about how to care for your tree through the seasons as it matures.

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Beautiful Start to the Summer at the ELS Wholesale Nursery!

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It’s about to officially be summer, which means the tens of thousands of plants at the ELS Wholesale Nursery are looking great!

You can slide through the images to the right for just a few selections of the truly massive quantities of beautiful shrubs, trees, and succulents grown in-house for use in the many developments being built and maintained by ELS Maintenance & Construction.

After the lengthy but wet winter we had, it took a little longer for the spring growth to arrive. But when it did, things BOOMED! Now, our nursery is looking as lush as ever, with plants being sent to job sites daily.

If you’re interested in doing business with us, feel free to request a bid by clicking here.

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Early Summer Pruning for Desert Trees and Shrubs

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Wondering what you can do in your garden in the heat of the summer? How does pruning trees sound? It may come as a surprise, but May to August—in the otherwise brutal heat of the summer months—is the best time to prune native and desert-adapted trees like palo verde, sissoo, mesquite, willow acacia, palo brea and African sumac. June is ideal, just before the summer monsoon season begins.

Here’s why.

  

First, desert trees grow quickly and can build up heavy foliage that weigh down their limbs. Second, pruning cuts to desert trees heal more quickly in the heat.

The goal of pruning a desert tree is to evenly reduce the weight of overgrown or heavy limbs to create more space within the tree canopy for wind to blow through and for heavy rains to fall to the ground below. This approach is called “crown thinning,” a term you can read more about it you don’t have much pruning experience.

You can prune any tree at any time of year to remove dead or diseased branches or to remove a branch that rubs against or crosses another branch. If the tree is already unhealthy, limit your pruning to removing only dead branches.

If your tree is in good condition but just overgrown, remove suckers from the trunk and thin the crown, being careful not to remove more than 25 percent of the tree’s foliage in any one year. In the process of thinning, also be sure to avoid “lion tailing” your branches. Lion tailing involves removing too many small branches from within the tree canopy, leaving foliage mainly on the branches’ outer tips. Lion tailing is a common cause of storm damage to trees because the branches end up unevenly balanced with too much foliage weighted at the tips.

So, this month, begin by deciding what and where to prune. Look at your desert tree from a distance to assess its overall height, width, density, shape and spacing between branches. Think about how wind and rain can better move through the tree. Plan your cuts. Then hydrate in advance, head outside early in the day, and start pruning.

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The Benefits of Turf Aeration for Arizona Grass

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Aeration is a process vital to the success of turf spaces, and in the Phoenix area, it’s practically a regular requirement to keep grass looking happy and healthy. You may see aeration listed on your landscaping schedule, but what is it, and when is the best time to do it for your home’s lawn?

Why Aerate Turf?

A grass turf needs water to penetrate deep, through the thick mesh of living and dead material known as the “thatch,” in order to get to the roots. Over time, the thatch becomes thick and tightly woven, to the point where very little water makes it to the roots. This also prevents nutrients from getting to the roots. Grass without water or nutrients results in sad, dry grass that will look ugly for most of the year. Aeration is the most common solution to this inevitable problem.

The Aeration Process

            In order to properly aerate a turf space, you’ll need an aerating tool or machine and a recently watered patch of grass. The turf is easier to penetrate when the grass has been thoroughly moistened. The aerator comes in a few forms. There are aerators that you can install on a lawn mower for larger grass spaces, or you can buy a push aerator for smaller grass spaces.

You also have a choice between spike aerators and plug aerators. We usually recommend the plug aerator, as it pulls chunks of soil up and out of the ground and allows for more water to pass the thatch. The spike aerator also works, though not as effectively. It pokes small holes into the turf at regular intervals. Whichever aerator you use, you need to make sure you pass the aerator over as much of the turf area as possible multiple times until there are sufficient openings for water and nutrients.

When To Aerate

The best time to aerate turf depends on the climate and ecosystem of the region. For the Phoenix area, the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension recommends aerating turf once a month from June through August. It’s the hottest time of the year, and during June the driest time of year, a time during which grass needs to be able to absorb as much water and nutrients as possible. Aerating during this time also prevents water waste and saves you money.

ELS Maintenance makes sure all turf spaces are properly aerated as needed, and you may see us poking holes or pulling soil plugs from golf courses, parks, entrances, and anywhere else with grass. For more information about turf care practices, the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension has many great sources. If you know of a community or commercial property looking for a new landscaping company, email us at [email protected] and we’ll get started!

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Complete Your Winter-to-Summer Grass Transition

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In late April and early May, when nighttime temperatures are consistently above 65 degrees, it’s time to transition winter to summer grass. If you didn’t overseed with winter perennial ryegrass, your Bermuda grass will transition naturally and sooner because it isn’t competing with the winter grass. Whether you’re watching the ELS crew take care of your community parks or striving for the best lawn in the neighborhood, you’ll appreciate these simple tips for transitioning to fuller, greener summer Bermuda grass:

Cut Down Your Winter Perennial Ryegrass

Each time you mow, lower the mow height ½” inch until the winter perennial ryegrass is about ½- to 3/4-inch high. Be sure to collect your clippings so they don’t block sunlight to the soil. The lower the ryegrass, the more heat and sunlight can reach the exposed soil surface. This will encourage the Bermuda grass roots to grow and the ryegrass to die back.

Reduce the Amount of Water You Apply

Ryegrass requires consistent water. When you cut back on the water you apply, you will further stress the ryegrass and allow the Bermuda to gain advantage. You can get similar results by stopping the water completely for 5 days. The Bermuda will hold on, but the ryegrass will die back.

Aerate to Address Soil Compaction and Encourage Bermuda Growth

You can opt to aerate your turf areas. Turf aeration addresses soil compaction, increases water penetration and nutrient uptake to the roots, and oxygenates the soil.

Fertilize Two Weeks Later

The Bermuda grass should be growing in well and overtaking the ryegrass after about two weeks. Then it’s time to broadcast a balanced fertilizer and increase the watering back to appropriate warm-weather levels.

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The Basics of Arizona Weed Control

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April showers bring May flowers. And weeds. We refer to plants we don’t want as weeds. They pop up in locations where they don’t belong. They compete with the plants we actually want for sunlight, water and nutrients. In other parts of your yard, weeds look unsightly and can become a nuisance.

Control Weeds Before They Germinate

Since weed seeds need the right combination of soil temperature, water and sunlight to germinate and grow, weed control begins by creating undesirable growing conditions.

For a variety of reasons, including health and groundwater protection, turn first to non-chemical options for weed control. Spread a layer of mulch over the soil, especially on vegetable gardens and flower beds to also add organic matter and slow soil evaporation. A layer of rock or bark will have the same effect of blocking sunlight.

Chemical treatments are typical for cost-effectively managing weeds in residential parks and common areas. ELS applies seasonal pre-emergence residual herbicides for long-lasting weed management. Some pre-emergence products are available to homeowners for residential use.

Eliminate Weeds After They Emerge

For the weeds that nevertheless emerge, you can purchase various post-emergence weed killer products. Or, simply hand-pull or hoe the young weeds before they flower and set a new seed cycle. Applying simple household staples, like white vinegar, diluted rubbing alcohol or boiling water, are also effective methods for killing weeds. Just be careful not to accidentally damage the plants you wish to keep. YouTube videos are a good source for further instructions.

Weed Control in Turf Areas

If you have a lawn, this means that the best prevention against weeds is keeping your turfgrass dense and healthy enough to choke out weeds. Be sure to mow your variety of turf to its recommended seasonal heights and frequencies. Maintain turf vigor with routine, seasonal fertilization, aeration, and infrequent, deep irrigation.

If you choose to apply a pre-emergence residual herbicide on turfgrass at home, late autumn and early spring are generally the best times of year in Central Arizona. But plan ahead, because there are two different types of pre-emergence herbicides available for residential lawns, each with a different mode of action. Select the correct type and then follow all package directions carefully.

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