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drip distance

How Far Should a Drip Be from a Tree Trunk?

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It may not seem like a big deal, but the space between a tree’s trunk and its water source can be a lifesaver or a killer in Arizona landscaping. Our soil texture, the nature of root development, and species of tree affect where to place drip lines most optimally for your trees. This applies to bushes and flowers to a lesser extent as well, but the effects of watering too close to the main root flare of a plant are only truly life-altering to plants as they grow larger.

The first thing to know is that our SOIL in the Phoenix area is high in clay and is very alkaline, meaning it contains salts and has a pH higher than 7 – often over 8 in some areas of the Valley. This means that air and water flow is often poor, and it takes much longer for water to creep downwards below the topsoil. This is why professionals recommend infrequent but deep waterings to fully satiate plants in the desert. This also means that if you water a tree with a drip that is placed directly next to its main trunk, that water is likely to sit in the first several inches of soil directly around the base of the trunk for hours. This is bad for two reasons. First: watering only at the base of a tree tells the tree only to grow fine roots close to the base of the tree, which can cause root girdling (tangling and constriction) and makes the tree more likely to fall during strong winds due to not being firmly rooted in the ground. Second: standing water at the base of many tree species, especially desert-adapted trees, can lead to rotting and infection of the trunk or root flare. Either way, watering too close to the trunk makes a tree more likely to fall over or die (or both).

It’s also important to keep in mind the SPECIES of the tree and what its development into MATURITY looks like. Measure your tree’s canopy diameter if possible. The diameter of the canopy is a good way to estimate the diameter of the root span beneath the surface. Because of this, the general guideline is to place the drips close to the edge of the canopy in a radius around the tree. This means that as a tree grows and matures, you should change the locations of driplines. Perhaps every three years the placement of drips around a tree should be changed to match the newly expanded canopy diameter. If the tree is native to desert ecosystems, like Palo Verdes, Acacias, Eucalyptus, Mesquites, etc., then the amount of water assistance can remain consistent, if not decrease until the tree is fully self-sufficient and established. If the tree is not native to the desert, it will need more water as it grows. If you had four, 2 GPH drips circling a Ficus tree with a 10-foot diameter, but after three years its canopy is 20 feet, you should move the drips to match the edge of the canopy and increase the number of 2 GPH drips to 10. This way, the tree is well-nourished and stable without ever having its trunk swamped.

Read Water Use It Wisely’s “Landscape Watering By The Numbers” by clicking here for more specific information.

At ELS Maintenance & Construction, we install, maintain, and improve irrigation infrastructure to save water and promote healthy plant growth in communities and commercial properties around the Valley. If you know of a community or commercial center that needs new landscapers, email [email protected] and we can get started!

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Spotting Invasive Weeds in Arizona Yards

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As we transition from winter rains and frosts to springtime blooms, it’s important to know what we’re looking at when we see flowers in our yards and on the sides of streets. Sometimes, a pretty flower is actually an invasive species – a plant not native to our ecosystem that competes with (and sometimes defeats) native plants. Invasive flowers and grasses in particular interrupt the lifestyle of iconic Sonoran Desert animals as well; starving desert tortoises and keeping quail from walking on the ground, among other dangers. They can also drastically increase the risk and severity of wildfires. Overall, it’s vital to keep invasive species off your property whenever possible.

The plant biodiversity of any given place changes constantly in the long term. A species is only “invasive” when it was brought from one area to another by human activity and it disrupts the equilibrium of the previously existing ecosystem.

There are a few invasive trees that cause problems by lowering biodiversity and preventing the growth of native species.

The Salt Cedar (Tamarix ramosissima) is a tall shrub or medium tree that grows mostly in washes and other wet areas, which spreads rapidly to block water flow and increase fire risk.

The Weeping Acacia (Acacia salicina) is generally considered “benign,” but can quickly reseed and overwhelm any area near a water source. They typically don’t spread very far, and are often still used as trees in landscaping. This is probably the least harmful tree on the list.

The Lead Tree (Leucaena leucocephala) may look like a mesquite or acacia, but is actually one of the worst invasive trees in Arizona.

The invasive bushes and flowers of Arizona are arguably much more harmful, as they spread into the wilderness and are not restricted to washes and wet areas.

One of the worst offenders in the past few decades is the Fountain Grass (Pennisetum setaceum). Its purple variant is fine to plant, but its natural form outcompetes native species throughout the desert.

 

Globe Chamomile (Oncosiphon piluliferum) is the most recent invader to Arizona. It looks like a cute wildflower blooming in little gold spheres. However, it’s certainly the most harmful plant on this list and needs to be removed on sight.

It may look pretty while it blooms, but it actively harms the wildlife of the Sonoran Desert by being inedible and clogging the ground with flammable brush that can catch fire easily during the summer. Pick it before it blooms to prevent its spread. As an identification tip, its young leaves look a bit like carrot leaves.

Several other grasses and flowers are also invasive: Brome Grass, Buffelgrass, Camelthorn, and various Thistles (including the famous “tumbleweed”) are among the most problematic for the ecosystem.

For some lists of invasive plants that should be removed on sight, check out the Arizona Department of Forestry and Fire Management’s Invasive Species list at https://dffm.az.gov/forestry-community-forestry/forest-health/invasive-plants or the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Invasive Species Program at https://extension.arizona.edu/pima-invasive-species-program for more information. Removing invasive species will improve the health of your property’s landscaping and slow the spread of these species while scientists develop strategies to mitigate their impact on the ecosystem.

At ELS Maintenance & Construction, we do what we can to prevent the germination and spread of invasive species at our communities and commercial properties with herbicides, manual pulling, and pre-emergent weed killer. If you know of a community or commercial center that needs new landscapers, contact [email protected] and we can get started!

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Why Saguaros Struggled in 2023

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January through April 2023 were some of the rainiest months in the past 30 years for the Sonoran Desert, and you could tell the plants enjoyed the extra water. Flowers bloomed massively, creosotes sprouted strongly, and cacti were engorged more than they had been in a long time. Then, we experienced the hottest, driest summer on record, and things began to die.

For cacti like saguaros, which are built to store massive amounts of rainwater specifically to survive drought periods, you would think that a dry summer would be taxing, but not fatal. But if you look around the Phoenix area lately, saguaros that are hundreds of years old are dropping like flies, usually after dripping a nasty black goop.

What’s happening, and why?

That black goop dripping from the sides of saguaros is the main symptom of a plant disease called “Bacterial Necrosis.” There’s a very brief window where it can be cured by having an arborist carefully cut out the infected section and sanitize it before it reaches the core of the saguaro’s vascular system. Once the necrosis has spread, it’s nearly always fatal. It can take months or even years to fall over, but an untreated, infected saguaro will most likely die.

Bacterial Necrosis occurs when a plant’s immune system is weakened enough that bacteria is able to enter and colonize it from within. The bacteria eats plant materials and the carbohydrates stored within and gradually degrades its stability until it falls over.

In the case of the saguaro, several factors led to the mass dying we are currently seeing.

Firstly, we experienced over a month where the nighttime temperature didn’t descend below 95 degrees in some areas. Most desert plants are attuned to the temperature and strategically close their stomata and pause cellular respiration when the temperature is above 90 degrees, to preserve water. But just like animals, plants can’t hold their breath forever. If more than a week goes by without being able to engage in cellular respiration, any plant will begin to suffer. This stress can be enough to weaken the immune system and allow bacteria to get in.

Secondly, bad landscaping practices can lead to extra stress on saguaros. Even though they are known for being the icon of the harsh ecosystem we live in, they are not invincible. A saguaro planted in the median of a busy street goes through much more stress than a saguaro in nature, since it’s stuck in a spot where the ground is always hot from asphalt and there is little horizontal room for roots to grow.

A saguaro moved from its original location and planted somewhere else is also more likely to experience more stress than a saguaro in nature. If the saguaro was planted multiple feet deeper in the ground than where it was born, its rootball will have little to no access to oxygen and there will be multiple feet of trunk buried under the ground experiencing constant tissue damage as it grows and shrinks with the seasons. It may take several years, even up to two decades after being planted badly, before bacterial necrosis sets in. If a saguaro’s trunk doesn’t taper in width at its bottom foot or two, it was likely planted too deep and will likely die prematurely.

Additionally, the cardinal direction of the saguaro’s planting is vital to its long-term health. Growers often keep track of which part of a cactus is facing north. If this knowledge is lost through repotting or transit, a saguaro can be planted facing the wrong direction. This will lead to sun damage and a higher likelihood of dying prematurely to necrosis or other diseases.

Other human actions can lead to a saguaro’s untimely demise as well.

Installing a saguaro in a spot with no other plant life and covered in gravel? Cutting off the saguaro’s root space permanently to install a pool? Covering an area near a saguaro with fake turf? Overwatering a saguaro or putting a plant with high water requirements too close to a saguaro?

All of these actions can build up stress for a saguaro in the long term. Then, one bad summer, and next thing you know your prized plant is falling over.

With all this in mind, it’s important to note that saguaros are very low-maintenance plants. They are icons of the Sonoran Desert, vital to the ecosystem, and can increase property value by tens of thousands of dollars. The tricky part comes in the installation. You need to make sure your saguaro is being planted in the correct spot, with the correct cardinal orientation, at the healthiest depth for the rootball, and near other low-water plants.

ELS Maintenance & Construction does installation jobs for communities across the Valley, utilizing Arizona’s best practices to keep every tree, shrub, and cactus as healthy as possible. If you’re interested in submitting a Proposal Request, email us at [email protected] or call 602-243-1106.

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Which Arizona Shrubs Need Winter Rejuvenation Pruning?

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Winter is a very interesting time in the field of Arizona landscaping, much different from most other places in the world. Most trees and shrubs native to the Sonoran Desert are drought deciduous, meaning they strategically grow and lose leaves depending on precipitation and humidity. Only the riparian trees (Mesquites, Cottonwoods, Sycamores, Desert Willows, etc.) lose their leaves in the classic autumn fashion of the rest of the United States. It’s the non-native trees and shrubs that behave that way… or at least they’re supposed to in their natural habitats. There are several species of plants that need to be cut back manually to keep them from getting hollow and ugly over time. This is just one of several reasons landscapers engage in “Rejuvenation Pruning.”

Rejuvenation Pruning is the act of chopping a shrub back nearly to the ground, leaving only its main trunks, once every year or so. Simple trimming works to keep plants looking neat in the short term, but over time this leaves them hollow shells of their former selves, with thin and weak foliage barely covering an empty, leafless interior. Not only does this start looking ugly after several months, but it leaves plants more vulnerable to pests, diseases, and sun damage. For these reasons, rejuvenation is vital to keeping a healthy landscape, even if the stumps of the cut back shrubs look ugly for a few weeks. This is, in fact, the best practice for the Arizona landscaping industry.

Evergreen shrubs need rejuvenation to fix the hollow look, typically once per year or every other year. Some notable examples of evergreen bushes in need of regular rejuvenation include Sage, Deergrass, Ruellia, and Lantana. Drought-deciduous shrubs will eventually need rejuvenation as well, though since they grow slowly, they often only need rejuvenation every few years. Some drought-deciduous examples include Creosote, Bursage, Fairy Duster, Chuparosa, and Eremophylla species. Seasonally deciduous shrubs are usually rejuvenated annually in the late fall once their leaves begin to fall off. Some notable deciduous shrubs include Mexican Bird of Paradise, Vitex, Rose, and several others.

Whether the shrub is seasonally deciduous, drought deciduous, or evergreen, the smartest times to rejuvenate are during the late fall and early spring. Big cutbacks like this can be harmful in the extreme heat of the summer or the near-freezing temperatures of the winter. For deciduous shrubs, they won’t have leaves on them by then anyway.

The most important thing to remember is not to worry when you see your landscapers chop down your favorite shrubs. This is the best strategy to keep plants healthy in the long run, even if it means they may look ugly for a few weeks before new foliage emerges. If the shrub is seasonally deciduous, it wasn’t going to be growing until springtime anyway. ELS Maintenance makes sure all shrubs are on a proper pruning and rejuvenation schedule for their species, location, and age, keeping things looking healthy and vivacious. If you know of a community or commercial property looking for a new landscaping company, email us at [email protected] and we’ll get started!

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Best Annual Flowers for the Fall in Phoenix

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As the average daily temperature finally dips into the low 90’s and below, the conditions are just right to start your fall planting. Your choices may depend on the aesthetics of your neighborhood, sun exposure, animal exposure, and hardiness in the winter.

Sun Exposure

            Let’s face it: it’s probably still going to be “hot” until the beginning of November. At the same time, the amount of sun and the angle through which it moves in the sky will decline, yielding less overall light. Before you plant, it’s important to know whether your gardens and/or pots will have decent sun exposure by the time of the winter solstice or not.

Petunias, marigolds, dianthus, snapdragons, and many others need as much sunlight as they can get leading to and beyond the winter solstice, especially if you want them to survive into the springtime. Pansies, violas, alyssums, and lobelias are a few examples of fall annual flowers that can handle more shady conditions. Keep in mind, though, that a spot with zero sunlight isn’t going to be good for any plant.

Animal Exposure

            After sun exposure, vulnerability to animals is the most important thing you’ll need to pay attention to when selecting plants. Are there more javelinas in your neighborhood than squirrels? More quails than doves? Some plants are favorite snacks of each of these creatures and many others. Some plants are typically left alone by most, if not all of them.

Marigolds, salvias, euphorbias, lavenders, pansies, violas, and alyssum are just a few common ornamental plants that are ignored by javelinas, bunnies, squirrels, and birds (most of the time). If animals are a prevalent destroyer of gardens in your area, avoid planting petunias, begonias, ornamental cabbage, morning glory bush, and generally any food plants.

Winter Hardiness

Finally, it’s important to think about whether you want your flowers to survive through the winter. Most flowers can be preserved through frosty nights by covering them with permeable sheets (no plastic), but some are certainly more vulnerable than others.

Pansies, violas, snapdragons, geraniums, gazanias, and dianthus are a few choices for frost hardy flowers. Any remaining vincas, potato vines, and other summer flowers will likely lose most of their leaves in the winter but will usually survive and flourish in the spring if you’re willing to keep them during their off season. Particularly vulnerable flowers include small salvias, purple hearts, euphorbias, most food plants, and many others. Be sure to ask about cold hardiness when you’re purchasing flowers.

ELS Maintenance orders fall flowers for communities as early as possible from the best growers in Arizona to ensure that entrances, monuments, and other pottings in common areas look beautiful fast! If you know of a community or commercial property looking for a new landscaping company, email us at [email protected] and we’ll get started!

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Verticillium and Cinnamon Mold Detected Throughout Phoenix Area

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If you’ve noticed the sudden and rapid death of many trees across the Valley this summer, you’re not alone. We went from an extremely wet cool season to an extremely hot and dry warm season this year. Extreme weather patterns like these often cause weakened immune systems in non-native plant species, which lead to the current situation.

Recent soil tests by plant pathologist Dr. Jared Wheeler have revealed the
culprits for the most recent wave of rapid tree death: Verticillium and
Cinnamon Fungus (Phytopthora cinnamomi). Verticillium is a fungal
disease that stops vascular flow in non-native trees planted in soils with high clay content, especially on grounds that were previously farmland.
Phytophthora cinnamomi is a highly contagious “devastation mold” which
causes the rapid decay of root systems in soil with poor drainage.

Many tree and shrub species are affected, but this year, the biggest victims are Chinese Pistache, Elms, Catalpas, Olives, and Oaks. This disease is almost always fatal, and affected trees must be removed. We will soon be presenting bids for soil treatment with sulfur and/or gypsum to decrease microbial buildup in future plantings.’

While Verticilium Wilt and Phytopthora Cinnamomi are the most visible diseases affecting trees this summer, they are not the only ones found in Arizona soils.

Earlier this year, we dealt with cases of Slime Flux, especially on Elm and Ash Trees. Texas Root Rot is a common killer of trees and shrubs in soil with poor drainage. The table below, provided by Dr. Jared Wheeler, shows a list of some common microbial killers of trees in the Phoenix area.

Trees that are not native to the Sonoran Desert are generally at higher a risk of catching diseases, since they are not in their natural ecosystems and are thus are more likely to have weakened immune systems during extreme weather. We are currently removing affected trees and planning our
strategies for soil treatment and tree replacement.

For more information about Tree Diseases:
Verticillium in Pistachios (in an Agricultural Context)
https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1930-2021.pdf
Information on Cinnamon Fungus, aka. Phytopthora cinnamomi (PDF Download)
https://gd.eppo.int/download/doc/199_datasheet_PHYTCN.pdf
ALCA’s Presentation on Common Arizona Tree Diseases
https://www.azlca.com/uploads/documents/part-ii-diseases-disorders.pdf
Pinal Central Article on Verticillium Habits (written during a 2018 outbreak)
https://www.pinalcentral.com/home_and_hearth/gibson-verticillium-wilt-disease-devastating-to-many-
plants/article_d7ce35d6-7db3-519d-8f43-61b97947ad5c.html

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Dethatching Defined – Improving Arizona Turf in the Late Summer

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Dethatching Defined

It’s August, and your summer Bermudagrass should have grown in nicely by now. If it is still looking thin and patchy with areas of brown in between, your turf may be suffering the effects of too much thatch accumulation. Another good indication of thatch buildup is that the grass has a bouncy feel when you walk on it. In Arizona, overseeded turf is prone to thatch because the grass plants die back twice a year, and that dead material accumulates as thatch. Add dethatching to your summer turf care routine.

The purpose of dethatching is to remove that layer of built-up organic matter to restore some breathing room to the soil surface. The organic matter can consist of decomposing grass plants, tree droppings and insects or animal waste, but mostly uncollected grass clippings and living and dead Bermudagrass stolons and rhizomes.

But, wait a minute. Shouldn’t organic matter be beneficial to the soil and turfgrass plants? Yes, indeed. As organic matter decomposes, carbon, nitrogen and other important elements are released that are necessary for plant growth. Organic matter at the soil surface also forms a barrier against weed germination and serves to minimize water evaporation and protect grass against frost damage. So why would we need to remove the thatch?

A layer of thatch is beneficial to a penetrable thickness of about one-half inch. More than that, and the thatch becomes an impermeable barrier to delivering air, water and nutrients to the soil layer and then down to the grass roots beneath. A thatch layer that is too thick can also harbor pests and detrimental fungi. Thatch can accumulate quickly if you overwater, overfertilize or have heavy clay soil.

Thatch buildup causes thin, patchy grass with areas of brown in between. To be sure that thinness is due to thatch, use your fingers or a screwdriver to dig down between the grass blades until you touch the hard soil surface to roughly measure the depth of the thatch layer. Just an inch or so of thatch is going to have a damaging effect on your grass.

You can dethatch your lawn any time of year that the average nighttime temperature is above 60 degrees. This can be as soon as March or April in Arizona. To dethatch your lawn, you can always do it the old-fashioned way, using a sturdy steel rake. Or, you can rent a verticutter/power rake machine. Either way, be sure to clean up all of the debris that gets raked up so it doesn’t settle back in between the grass blades when you next water. Then apply the appropriate rate of fertilizer (see our blog post) to help the grass fill in the newly exposed bare spots.

Even if you dethatch your lawn, take steps to prevent it from happening too quickly again. Recalculate the correct rates of water and fertilizer you should be applying. There are online tools that can help you with both, like AMWUA’s Landscape Watering by the Numbers. Overall, no single action you take is enough to keep your grass healthy. It’s the combination of cutting, watering, fertilizing, aerating, dethatching and weeding that keeps grass looking great and growing well.

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Leave Young Trees Staked Through Monsoon Season

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The heavy winds characteristic of summer monsoon storms in Arizona threaten to damage young trees. Young trees have often not developed trunk strength or a root system extensive enough to withstand the winds. We therefore stake them to protect them not only from wind, but also from people, traffic, equipment, animals and other hazards.

Stake Your Tree for No More Than a Year

Most any type or size of tree, however, is only going to need support stakes through the monsoon season plus one or two growing seasons (spring or autumn) before or after. After no more than a year, remove the stakes entirely and backfill their holes with soil.

Stake with the Right Materials

Commercially grown trees often come with a stake tied tightly to the trunk. Even if the tree came this way from a nursery, remove the stake. When you plant the nursery tree in the ground, change the staking method to the one we describe here, which will be loosely looped around the trunk to allow the tree to sway in any direction. A tree should never been constricted around its trunk.

In place of any nursery stake, use two wooden poles measuring 6-to 8-feet long and 2- to 3-inches in diameter. You will also need two 18- to 20-inch segments of garden hose or smooth, pliable rubber tubing that won’t damage the tree bark and 2 lengths of heavy-duty wire about 5-feet long, enough to reach from pole to pole and wrap around one another to tie off.

Place Your Stakes

First, figure out the direction the wind usually blows. Best practice is to position the lodge poles standing straight up and positioned in line with the wind, 180 degrees from each other on either side of the tree. That means that if wind typically blows from the south, the two lodge poles would be placed 180 degrees from each other in the south and north positions.

Position the poles 6 inches outside of the root ball and drive them into the ground to a depth of about 2 feet. More importantly, drive the stakes far enough into the ground that they do not extend up into the tree’s canopy and thereby damage swaying branches or foliage.

Support the Trunk with Loose Ties

Slide the wire through the hose pieces and position them against the tree trunk. Attach each end of both wires to both poles so that they meet on either side. Set the height of the wire just below the lowermost canopy branches. Twist the wire ends together on the outside of the stake. Cut off any excess wire ends for safety.

Inspect the Staking Every Few Months

Check your stakes every few months to be sure that only the rubber tubing is gently in contact with the tree trunk. Be sure that the staking is not constricting the tree trunk in any way. A staked tree should still be able to move somewhat within the tie.

Leave Low Branches on the Tree

Avoid pruning a young tree while it is staked, unless branches are dead or damaged to avoid pest and disease infestations. Leave lower branches on the trunk for the first year as well to help protect the trunk from sunburn.

Remove the Stakes

Again, remove the stakes entirely after 1-2 growing seasons, after the danger of monsoon has passed and after no longer than a year. Remove low branches. Learn more about how to care for your tree through the seasons as it matures.

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Early Summer Pruning for Desert Trees and Shrubs

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Wondering what you can do in your garden in the heat of the summer? How does pruning trees sound? It may come as a surprise, but May to August—in the otherwise brutal heat of the summer months—is the best time to prune native and desert-adapted trees like palo verde, sissoo, mesquite, willow acacia, palo brea and African sumac. June is ideal, just before the summer monsoon season begins.

Here’s why.

  

First, desert trees grow quickly and can build up heavy foliage that weigh down their limbs. Second, pruning cuts to desert trees heal more quickly in the heat.

The goal of pruning a desert tree is to evenly reduce the weight of overgrown or heavy limbs to create more space within the tree canopy for wind to blow through and for heavy rains to fall to the ground below. This approach is called “crown thinning,” a term you can read more about it you don’t have much pruning experience.

You can prune any tree at any time of year to remove dead or diseased branches or to remove a branch that rubs against or crosses another branch. If the tree is already unhealthy, limit your pruning to removing only dead branches.

If your tree is in good condition but just overgrown, remove suckers from the trunk and thin the crown, being careful not to remove more than 25 percent of the tree’s foliage in any one year. In the process of thinning, also be sure to avoid “lion tailing” your branches. Lion tailing involves removing too many small branches from within the tree canopy, leaving foliage mainly on the branches’ outer tips. Lion tailing is a common cause of storm damage to trees because the branches end up unevenly balanced with too much foliage weighted at the tips.

So, this month, begin by deciding what and where to prune. Look at your desert tree from a distance to assess its overall height, width, density, shape and spacing between branches. Think about how wind and rain can better move through the tree. Plan your cuts. Then hydrate in advance, head outside early in the day, and start pruning.

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The Benefits of Turf Aeration for Arizona Grass

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Aeration is a process vital to the success of turf spaces, and in the Phoenix area, it’s practically a regular requirement to keep grass looking happy and healthy. You may see aeration listed on your landscaping schedule, but what is it, and when is the best time to do it for your home’s lawn?

Why Aerate Turf?

A grass turf needs water to penetrate deep, through the thick mesh of living and dead material known as the “thatch,” in order to get to the roots. Over time, the thatch becomes thick and tightly woven, to the point where very little water makes it to the roots. This also prevents nutrients from getting to the roots. Grass without water or nutrients results in sad, dry grass that will look ugly for most of the year. Aeration is the most common solution to this inevitable problem.

The Aeration Process

            In order to properly aerate a turf space, you’ll need an aerating tool or machine and a recently watered patch of grass. The turf is easier to penetrate when the grass has been thoroughly moistened. The aerator comes in a few forms. There are aerators that you can install on a lawn mower for larger grass spaces, or you can buy a push aerator for smaller grass spaces.

You also have a choice between spike aerators and plug aerators. We usually recommend the plug aerator, as it pulls chunks of soil up and out of the ground and allows for more water to pass the thatch. The spike aerator also works, though not as effectively. It pokes small holes into the turf at regular intervals. Whichever aerator you use, you need to make sure you pass the aerator over as much of the turf area as possible multiple times until there are sufficient openings for water and nutrients.

When To Aerate

The best time to aerate turf depends on the climate and ecosystem of the region. For the Phoenix area, the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension recommends aerating turf once a month from June through August. It’s the hottest time of the year, and during June the driest time of year, a time during which grass needs to be able to absorb as much water and nutrients as possible. Aerating during this time also prevents water waste and saves you money.

ELS Maintenance makes sure all turf spaces are properly aerated as needed, and you may see us poking holes or pulling soil plugs from golf courses, parks, entrances, and anywhere else with grass. For more information about turf care practices, the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension has many great sources. If you know of a community or commercial property looking for a new landscaping company, email us at [email protected] and we’ll get started!

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