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Monsoon season has officially been defined as the period from June 15^th through September 30^th in Arizona.  This time of year usually brings excessive heat which is sometimes followed by high levels of moisture in the air causing vibrant thunderstorms accelerated by very fast winds.  Thunderstorms in the Phoenix area present a multitude of hazards including over-saturated soil and mudslides that often strike suddenly and with violent force. 

Desert trees are even more vulnerable during monsoon season as even the healthiest of roots have a weaker hold on the Earth when the soil is saturated. In this case, the bulk of the root system will become exposed if the tree falls over. If your trees are not pruned and thinned properly, they are more likely to become the victim of high winds typical of our Arizona monsoon season. Luckily, there are numerous options in prepping the trees at your home, community association, or commercial property to help ensure there are minimal broken branches and windblown trees!

Tree Assessments & Preparation

Now is the time to assess your trees to determine if they are in need of pruning before the storms arrive. The June, July, and August months are prime season to prune the desert tree species such as Palms, Acacia, Ironwood, Mesquite, and Palo Verde.  The tree’s canopy should be thinned so that the winds can pass through the branches easily, causing less strain on the base of the tree.  Have your professional arbor care company assess your trees in the coming weeks to see if the canopy is top heavy and full.  If so, it is critical to the health and safety of your trees to remove any overly thick foliage, damaged branches or other debris left over from previous storms.  They should also be lifted to a height that is comfortable enough for people to walk under. 

Taking these precautions should reduce the chance of your trees being damaged or causing damage when the winds arrive during our notorious Arizona monsoon season!

So how do I prune them?

Having the proper tools to prune your tree is important to the health of the plant material. Limbs up to 1/2 inch in diameter can be pruned with hand pruners. Long-handled pruning loppers can handle limbs up to 1 inch in diameter but a special pruning saw is needed for larger limbs. Hedging shears or power hedge trimmers should not be used to prune trees because they will not be able to make proper cuts and will damage the tree.

The Three Step Method for Properly Trimming a Tree Limb:

1. The first cut is a shallow notch made on the underside of the branch, up and outside but next to the branch collar. This should be .5 to 1.5 inches deep depending on the size of the branch. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.
2. The second cut should be outside the first cut. You should cut all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub. The bottom notch stops any stripping bark.
3. The stub is then cut off just outside the upper branch bark ridge and down just outside the branch collar. It is not recommended by many arborists that you paint the wound as that can impede healing and, at best, is a waste of time and paint.

The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. The callus ring enlarges and encloses the wound over time.^*

Despite the damage that these summer storms can cause, there is a beauty and benefit that follows.  The monsoon season brings the valley much-needed moisture to help cool those excessive temperatures and assist with water conservation.  Take full advantage of the free rainwater and adjust your irrigation schedules to accommodate water saving opportunity.

Hiring the Right Professional to Prepare Your Trees for Arizona Monsoon Season

Did you know that ELS has a complete Arbor Division with certified arborists, GIS mapping, palm tree trimming, certified pest management, tree removals, stump grinding, 3-5 year tree plans and emergency tree services?  Contact Scott Cosgrove, ISA Certified Arborist, at [email protected] or 602.243.1106  for more information on how ELS can assist your community today.

Many Arizona communities around the valley are gearing up for winter seeding and cutting back on water usage from the community’s turf areas.  September is the best month to start transitioning your lawn for the winter Ryegrass.  In addition to being more aesthetically pleasing than a brown lawn from the dormant Bermuda grass, maintaining a healthy green lawn all year provides the added benefit of keeping weeds under control.

It is important that you make the decision early on if you will be transitioning your turf from the Bermuda grass, which goes dormant in the winter, to the lush winter Ryegrass, so that you can properly prepare your lawn for over-seeding.  Perennial Ryegrass is preferred to Annual Ryegrass here in Phoenix because its blade is a darker green and a more durable grass to cut.  Waiting until your Bermuda lawn goes dormant naturally before over-seeding is not the best idea.  Seed germination works best when the season is still a little warmer, making October the perfect month to start planting.  There is only a small window of opportunity each year when conditions are ideal, which is why it is so important to plan ahead.

How to Install a Winter Lawn in Phoenix, Arizona

1) Stop fertilizing 4 to 6 weeks prior to over-seeding and cut back on watering.

2) As a recommended practice, dethatch your lawn prior to scalping if needed.  Thatch is the dead leaves, stems, and roots under the green part of the grass and just above the soil.  Set the dethatcher blades to run at about 1/4” above the soil to help clear out the dead debris and then discard.  Be sure to not dig into the soils as you may damage the root structure of your Bermuda grass and you will want for it to come back in the spring.

3) The next step is scalping. This is the process of setting your mower blades to cut the Bermuda grass down to ¼” or ½”.  If you are using a rotary mower, ¾” is acceptable.  Scalping your lawn allows for the sunlight to get to the Ryegrass to assist with germination.

4) Apply 10 lbs. of seed per 1000 sq. ft. of lawn with a broadcast spreader to evenly spread the seed across the turf area.

5) Adjust your watering schedule to 3 to 4 times per day with light 5 to 7-minute durations to keep the seeds damp.  You want to avoid the seeds becoming too dry, or overly saturated during the 2 weeks of the germination process.

6) Apply iron & calcium nitrate at least once before frost.

After about 2 to 4 weeks of growth you can mow the lawn and start reducing the watering schedule to 3 times weekly for about 8-20 minutes depending on the sprinkler head types on your property.  Watering schedules can be based on preference on the results you are looking for.

Call ELS

Did you know that ELS has a complete Landscape Maintenance Division that includes full-service maintenance management services, water conservation management, qualified/certified Division Managers, Area Managers and Irrigation Technicians?  Contact Ashley Tutelo at [email protected] or 602.243.1106 for more information on how Evergreen Landscaping Services (ELS) can assist your community today.