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Winter Pruning & Frost Susceptible Plants

It’s that time of year again for winter frost pruning and cut-backs. December marks the month for rejuvenation pruning of sages, oleanders, ornamental grasses, rosemarys, etc. and for deciduous trees to start dropping their leaves. Here are some of the things that your property may expect to see beginning this month and through the frost season (December through February).

Sage Rejuvenation Pruning

It can be quite shocking when your landscape crews come in and cut down the sage bushes to just sticks, but don’t worry, there is a reason for this! Rejuvenation pruning allows for the removal of old wood from the interior of the bush and stimulates new growth in the form of new branches that will produce more leaves and flowers in the coming weeks.

Freshly Pruned Sage Bush
Freshly Pruned Sage Bush
Healthy Sage Bush Upon Regrowth
Healthy Sage Bush Upon Regrowth

Deciduous Trees

Another change you may notice on your property is the trees. Did you know that Evergreen Elms and Sissoo trees are considered deciduous? This means that they will drop their leaves in the winter and will appear as if they are dying. Other deciduous tree types include Bonita Ash, Cottonwood, Mexican Redbud, Modesto Ash, Mulberry, and Red Push Pistache. At times, due to severe frost, it may result in the mortality of portions or the entirety of the tree. Don’t worry! In most cases their leaves will be back in the spring. Come early spring, your property’s professional landscape company should carry out a tree inspection and take an inventory for removal and new plantings if necessary.

Evergreen Elm
Evergreen Elm
Bare Evergreen Elm
Bare Evergreen Elm
Sissoo
Sissoo

Frost Pruning

Not all plants in Arizona need to be pruned in the cooler months. Actually, with some species they need to be left alone in order to protect their root ball from frost damage. The spread of dead brush acts as a warm blanket to protect the roots and overall health of the plant so that it can thrive in the spring. Some of the plants on your property including lantanas, ruellias, baha ruellias, oleanders, orange jubilee, bougainvillea, and yellow dots are all prone to frost damage, among others, and will be not be pruned until mid-February or at the last chance of frost.

Freshly Pruned Sage Bush
Freshly Pruned Sage Bush
Healthy Sage Bush Upon Regrowth
Healthy Sage Bush Upon Regrowth
planting-fall-annuals

A Desert of Color – Planting Fall Annuals

As we creep into cooler temperatures, October marks the beginning of the fall gardening season. With the Arizona climate differing so much from other parts of the country, you must be well-versed in the proper way to plant your annuals in the desert.
You may be hesitant to rip out your summer flowers while they are still lush and in full bloom, but TRUST US and do it! Fall annuals need to establish their roots in the warmer soils so that when the cooler temps start to slow their development they have a better support system in place. Fall flowers come in an array of bright colors, sizes and types, providing a long season of attractive blooms. Some of these winter annuals include:
Lobelia (Full Sun – 3-4”)
Lobelia (Full Sun – 3-4”)
Alyssum (Full Sun – 4”)
Alyssum (Full Sun – 4”)
Pansy (Full Sun – 6-8”)
Pansy (Full Sun – 6-8”)
Begonia (Full Shade – 6-8”)
Begonia (Full Shade – 6-8”)
Snapdragon (Full Sun – 6-22”)
Snapdragon (Full Sun – 6-22”)
Geraniums (Full Sun – 4-18”)
Geraniums (Full Sun – 4-18”)
Marigold (Full Sun – 10-12”)
Marigold (Full Sun – 10-12”)
Primrose (Partial Shade – 4-6”)
Primrose (Partial Shade – 4-6”)
Dianthus (Full Sun – 10-12”)
Dianthus (Full Sun – 10-12”)
October is the perfect time of year to bring rich color to your yard or garden. Remember, to ensure that your flowers stay alive and bloom all winter long, be sure to cover them with a sheet if the weather calls for a frost. Be creative and have fun enhancing your landscape with the wide array of beautiful annuals that are available to us here in the desert!
ELS Maintenance crew members planting fall annuals at the Seville Homeowners Association, October 2017.
ELS Maintenance crew members planting fall annuals at the Seville Homeowners Association, October 2017.
Tree-Care-in-monsun-season

Tree Care in the Arizona Monsoon Season

Monsoon season has officially been defined as the period from June 15th through September 30th in Arizona.  This time of year usually brings excessive heat which is sometimes followed by high levels of moisture in the air causing vibrant thunderstorms accelerated by very fast winds.  Thunderstorms in the Phoenix area present a multitude of hazards including over-saturated soil and mudslides that often strike suddenly and with violent force. 

Desert trees are even more vulnerable during monsoon season as even the healthiest of roots have a weaker hold on the Earth when the soil is saturated. In this case, the bulk of the root system will become exposed if the tree falls over. If your trees are not pruned and thinned properly, they are more likely to become the victim of high winds typical of our Arizona monsoon season. Luckily, there are numerous options in prepping the trees at your home, community association, or commercial property to help ensure there are minimal broken branches and windblown trees!

Tree Assessments & Preparation

Now is the time to assess your trees to determine if they are in need of pruning before the storms arrive. The June, July, and August months are prime season to prune the desert tree species such as Palms, Acacia, Ironwood, Mesquite, and Palo Verde.  The tree’s canopy should be thinned so that the winds can pass through the branches easily, causing less strain on the base of the tree.  Have your professional arbor care company assess your trees in the coming weeks to see if the canopy is top heavy and full.  If so, it is critical to the health and safety of your trees to remove any overly thick foliage, damaged branches or other debris left over from previous storms.  They should also be lifted to a height that is comfortable enough for people to walk under. 

Taking these precautions should reduce the chance of your trees being damaged or causing damage when the winds arrive during our notorious Arizona monsoon season!

Ficus Tree (microcarpa nitida) before pruning.
Ficus Tree (microcarpa nitida) after pruning.

 

 

 

 

 

 


So how do I prune them?

Having the proper tools to prune your tree is important to the health of the plant material. Limbs up to 1/2 inch in diameter can be pruned with hand pruners. Long-handled pruning loppers can handle limbs up to 1 inch in diameter but a special pruning saw is needed for larger limbs. Hedging shears or power hedge trimmers should not be used to prune trees because they will not be able to make proper cuts and will damage the tree.

The Three Step Method for Properly Trimming a Tree Limb:

  1. The first cut is a shallow notch made on the underside of the branch, up and outside but next to the branch collar. This should be .5 to 1.5 inches deep depending on the size of the branch. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.
  2. The second cut should be outside the first cut. You should cut all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub. The bottom notch stops any stripping bark.
  3. The stub is then cut off just outside the upper branch bark ridge and down just outside the branch collar. It is not recommended by many arborists that you paint the wound as that can impede healing and, at best, is a waste of time and paint.

The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. The callus ring enlarges and encloses the wound over time.*

Despite the damage that these summer storms can cause, there is a beauty and benefit that follows.  The monsoon season brings the valley much-needed moisture to help cool those excessive temperatures and assist with water conservation.  Take full advantage of the free rainwater and adjust your irrigation schedules to accommodate water saving opportunity.

Hiring the Right Professional to Prepare Your Trees for Arizona Monsoon Season

Did you know that ELS has a complete Arbor Division with certified arborists, GIS mapping, palm tree trimming, certified pest management, tree removals, stump grinding, 3-5 year tree plans and emergency tree services?  Contact Scott Cosgrove, ISA Certified Arborist, at [email protected] or 602.243.1106  for more information on how ELS can assist your community today.

winter-over-seeding

Winter Over-seeding in Arizona

Many Arizona communities around the valley are gearing up for winter seeding and cutting back on water usage from the community’s turf areas.  September is the best month to start transitioning your lawn for the winter Ryegrass.  In addition to being more aesthetically pleasing than a brown lawn from the dormant Bermuda grass, maintaining a healthy green lawn all year provides the added benefit of keeping weeds under control.

It is important that you make the decision early on if you will be transitioning your turf from the Bermuda grass, which goes dormant in the winter, to the lush winter Ryegrass, so that you can properly prepare your lawn for over-seeding.  Perennial Ryegrass is preferred to Annual Ryegrass here in Phoenix because its blade is a darker green and a more durable grass to cut.  Waiting until your Bermuda lawn goes dormant naturally before over-seeding is not the best idea.  Seed germination works best when the season is still a little warmer, making October the perfect month to start planting.  There is only a small window of opportunity each year when conditions are ideal, which is why it is so important to plan ahead.

How to Install a Winter Lawn in Phoenix, Arizona

1) Stop fertilizing 4 to 6 weeks prior to over-seeding and cut back on watering.

2) As a recommended practice, dethatch your lawn prior to scalping if needed.  Thatch is the dead leaves, stems, and roots under the green part of the grass and just above the soil.  Set the dethatcher blades to run at about 1/4” above the soil to help clear out the dead debris and then discard.  Be sure to not dig into the soils as you may damage the root structure of your Bermuda grass and you will want for it to come back in the spring.

3) The next step is scalping. This is the process of setting your mower blades to cut the Bermuda grass down to ¼” or ½”.  If you are using a rotary mower, ¾” is acceptable.  Scalping your lawn allows for the sunlight to get to the Ryegrass to assist with germination.

4) Apply 10 lbs. of seed per 1000 sq. ft. of lawn with a broadcast spreader to evenly spread the seed across the turf area.

5) Adjust your watering schedule to 3 to 4 times per day with light 5 to 7-minute durations to keep the seeds damp.  You want to avoid the seeds becoming too dry, or overly saturated during the 2 weeks of the germination process.

6) Apply iron & calcium nitrate at least once before frost.

After about 2 to 4 weeks of growth you can mow the lawn and start reducing the watering schedule to 3 times weekly for about 8-20 minutes depending on the sprinkler head types on your property.  Watering schedules can be based on preference on the results you are looking for.


Call ELS

Did you know that ELS has a complete Landscape Maintenance Division that includes full-service maintenance management services, water conservation management, qualified/certified Division Managers, Area Managers and Irrigation Technicians?  Contact Ashley Tutelo at [email protected] or 602.243.1106 for more information on how Evergreen Landscaping Services (ELS) can assist your community today.