As our trees start coming out of winter dormancy, landscaping crews are gearing up for spring tree trimming season. During this time of year, it is a best practice to start reducing the tree canopies to help prevent storm breakage during the summer monsoons in July and August. By alleviating some of the end weight on heavy branches, it allows the strong winds to flow freely through the branches, reducing the strain on the trunk.
The summer monsoons can propose a lot of danger with fast winds and excessive amounts of moisture in the air. Heavy rains can cause an oversaturation of the soil, allowing for even the healthiest of roots to have a weaker hold. Fortunately, there are ways to help prepare your trees for the season.
Tips for avoiding storm damage:
Prune your trees annually, even the less mature, by professionals who understand the importance of healthy tree structure. Poorly pruned trees are susceptible to disease, allowing for snapping limbs and trunks in the high winds of the monsoon season.
Water, mulch, and fertilize your trees regularly as healthy well-nourished trees will withstand the conditions much better than an unhealthy tree.
Keeping trees thin is essential to storm-proofing to the best of your ability. There is no way to control mother nature, but you can take steps to minimize her damage during our desert monsoon season.
Properties around the valley are currently experiencing a heavy infestation of Aphids on their plants and trees in their communities. Aphids are a small soft-bodied insect that can vary in size and color. They act as a plant parasite, sucking the nutritious sap from flowers, leaves, stems, and sometimes even roots, robbing the plant of water and essential nutrients.
The first sign your property may have aphids is a colorless and sticky substance on leaves below where they are feeding. The substance that is excreted from the insect are sugars from the plant host that can start to show up on grasses, leaves, even your car – basically anything underneath the insect.
Due to the aphid activity on ornamental trees, it seems the plant health of the trees are declining, resulting in yellowing, wilting, leaf curl, and stunted plant growth. Although aphids are usually not harmful in moderate outbreaks, we are seeing a heavy infestation on the properties and their surrounding areas, which can lead to harmful consequences such as virus transmission and decay.
Outbreak Management
Although plant fatality is uncommon due to an aphid outbreak, it is still a possibility. However, there are numerous natural ways to help manage the severity of the outbreak.
Check your plants regularly for aphids – by monitoring your plants at least twice a week it is possible to catch the infestation early so that you can prune them out or knock or hose them off.
The release of natural enemies – there are several predators that feed on aphids including lacewing larvae, soldier beetles, syrphid fly larvae, and the most well-known lady beetle adults and larvae.
Ant management – ants are known protectors of aphids as they are a great food source for them. If you come across ants crawling up aphid-infested trees or plants, apply a band of sticky material, such as tanglefoot, around the trunk to prevent them from crawling up.
Spring cutbacks are in full swing at communities around the valley as we have arrived at the season for the pruning of all frost damaged plants. The plant species included in this list are the bougainvillea, lantana, natal plum, Mexican honeysuckle and chuparosa. You can expect to see a drastic change in your community’s appearance in the next few weeks due to this rejuvenation pruning, but not to fret! The plants will begin to start taking new shape and bud out soon once the temperatures reach 80 degrees for a few weeks.
Why is this type of drastic pruning necessary?
When plants are allowed to grow in their natural form and shape they are more sustainable and live much healthier and longer lives. Constant shearing (balling up the plant) and excessive pruning compromise the vigor and health of the plant, making it susceptible to reduced blooming and even premature fatality.
Maintaining plant health includes the removal of diseased, dying, injured and dead branches. Controlling plant size to prevent obstruction of views, sidewalks, driveways or other hazards, and maintenance of plant health are all reasons for rejuvenation pruning. Remember, these plants are living just as humans. The more we cut and scrape ourselves, the more we are susceptible to scars, infection, and disease. The same ideology goes for these plants, making it vital to prune naturally to encourage normal regrowth in a sustainable manner.
What can I expect the plants to look like and how will they be cut?
We understand that when these cutbacks happen, it can leave your community looking bare and unappealing. But rest assured that it is only temporary and intended to assist with the preservation of one of your community’s largest assets.
Higher than average temperatures along with significant lack of moisture broke records in 2017 for Phoenix, Arizona. In fact, there were 14 high-temperature records set in 2017 including a high of 119 degrees set on June 20, making it one of the hottest days of all time for the region, and November being the warmest November to date in Phoenix history. Not only did we see record high temperatures in 2017, but Phoenicians also experienced significantly less rain than normal resulting in an increased chance of a harsh fire season and potentially a tree infestation with bark beetles. Drought weakens trees, allowing for bark beetles to flourish and attack in high numbers.
So, what does this mean for our landscape? EVERYTHING!
The high temperatures have forced communities around the valley to increase their water usage to keep the plants and turf from damage or even fatality. Community water budgets more than likely surpassed the original budgeted amount due to the forced increase of water usage needed. And according to the Climate Prediction Center’s seasonal outlook, it is predicted that 2018 could follow the same weather pattern.
The strong heat has also created a false sense of “spring” and has promoted the Bermuda grass to come out of dormancy. This change in weather has created a “salt and pepper” look to the turf on some properties, misleading it to look as if there are irrigation issues or other problems with the landscape maintenance. Another cause for the “salt and pepper” look could be from the Poa Annua turf weed (aka Bluegrass) that is coming up fast. While the weed is taking hold to the turf, its seeds take on a brownish color which could be mistaken for early sprouting Bermuda.
With so many different potential outcomes from the recent Arizona climate changes, it opens the door for even some of the most well-maintained properties appear unhealthy. Open dialogue with your professional landscape management company, could assist with understanding the condition of the property’s landscape assets and offer recommendations to prepare your community for another warm and dry year.
The gyms are packed and the diets are in full swing as New Year’s resolutions are well into play. While so many are determining how to make a difference in 2018 whether it be a new weight loss plan, to give more to charity, reduce credit card debt, or even spend more time with family, have you considered what you are going to do for your community?
Just like we set New Year’s resolutions for ourselves, as a Board Member or Community Manager, it is important not to forget your community association! Setting goals for your community and preparing a proper budget to accommodate those goals is imperative to keeping your property relevant and marketable.
There are many options when it comes to landscaping resolutions for your community association including water conservation plans, granite replenishment, monument sign upgrades, tot lot repairs, etc., but what about plant replenishment? One of the best ways to give your property a noticeable facelift in a fast and impactful way is with plant replenishment. Your community’s professional landscape management company should be able to take an inventory of all of your current plants and offer suggestions on which to remove and replace or to fill in barren areas that could use a brighter look.
Did you know that ELS has over 30 acres of wholesale nursery? Contact us today to begin planning your next replenishment project. ELS can partner with your community to review plant pallet opportunities and create a contractual grow plan for your property in advance.
It’s that time of year again for winter frost pruning and cut-backs. December marks the month for rejuvenation pruning of sages, oleanders, ornamental grasses, rosemarys, etc. and for deciduous trees to start dropping their leaves. Here are some of the things that your property may expect to see beginning this month and through the frost season (December through February).
Sage Rejuvenation Pruning
It can be quite shocking when your landscape crews come in and cut down the sage bushes to just sticks, but don’t worry, there is a reason for this! Rejuvenation pruning allows for the removal of old wood from the interior of the bush and stimulates new growth in the form of new branches that will produce more leaves and flowers in the coming weeks.
Freshly Pruned Sage Bush
Healthy Sage Bush
Upon Regrowth
Deciduous Trees
Another change you may notice on your property is the trees. Did you know that Evergreen Elms and Sissoo trees are considered deciduous? This means that they will drop their leaves in the winter and will appear as if they are dying. Other deciduous tree types include Bonita Ash, Cottonwood, Mexican Redbud, Modesto Ash, Mulberry, and Red Push Pistache. At times, due to severe frost, it may result in the mortality of portions or the entirety of the tree. Don’t worry! In most cases their leaves will be back in the spring. Come early spring, your property’s professional landscape company should carry out a tree inspection and take an inventory for removal and new plantings if necessary.
Evergreen Elm
Bare Evergreen Elm
Sissoo
Frost Pruning
Not all plants in Arizona need to be pruned in the cooler months. Actually, with some species they need to be left alone in order to protect their root ball from frost damage. The spread of dead brush acts as a warm blanket to protect the roots and overall health of the plant so that it can thrive in the spring. Some of the plants on your property including lantanas, ruellias, baha ruellias, oleanders, orange jubilee, bougainvillea, and yellow dots are all prone to frost damage, among others, and will be not be pruned until mid-February or at the last chance of frost.
As we creep into cooler temperatures, October marks the beginning of the fall gardening season. With the Arizona climate differing so much from other parts of the country, you must be well-versed in the proper way to plant your annuals in the desert.
You may be hesitant to rip out your summer flowers while they are still lush and in full bloom, but TRUST US and do it! Fall annuals need to establish their roots in the warmer soils so that when the cooler temps start to slow their development they have a better support system in place.
Fall flowers come in an array of bright colors, sizes and types, providing a long season of attractive blooms. Some of these winter annuals include:
Lobelia (Full Sun – 3-4”)
Alyssum (Full Sun – 4”)
Pansy (Full Sun – 6-8”)
Begonia (Full Shade – 6-8”)
Snapdragon (Full Sun – 6-22”)
Geraniums (Full Sun – 4-18”)
Marigold (Full Sun – 10-12”)
Primrose (Partial Shade – 4-6”)
Dianthus (Full Sun – 10-12”)
October is the perfect time of year to bring rich color to your yard or garden. Remember, to ensure that your flowers stay alive and bloom all winter long, be sure to cover them with a sheet if the weather calls for a frost. Be creative and have fun enhancing your landscape with the wide array of beautiful annuals that are available to us here in the desert!
ELS Maintenance crew members planting fall annuals at the Seville Homeowners Association, October 2017.
Monsoon season has officially been defined as the period from June 15th through September 30th in Arizona. This time of year usually brings excessive heat which is sometimes followed by high levels of moisture in the air causing vibrant thunderstorms accelerated by very fast winds. Thunderstorms in the Phoenix area present a multitude of hazards including over-saturated soil and mudslides that often strike suddenly and with violent force.
Desert trees are even more vulnerable during monsoon season as even the healthiest of roots have a weaker hold on the Earth when the soil is saturated. In this case, the bulk of the root system will become exposed if the tree falls over. If your trees are not pruned and thinned properly, they are more likely to become the victim of high winds typical of our Arizona monsoon season. Luckily, there are numerous options in prepping the trees at your home, community association, or commercial property to help ensure there are minimal broken branches and windblown trees!
Tree Assessments & Preparation
Now is the time to assess your trees to determine if they are in need of pruning before the storms arrive. The June, July, and August months are prime season to prune the desert tree species such as Palms, Acacia, Ironwood, Mesquite, and Palo Verde. The tree’s canopy should be thinned so that the winds can pass through the branches easily, causing less strain on the base of the tree. Have your professional arbor care company assess your trees in the coming weeks to see if the canopy is top heavy and full. If so, it is critical to the health and safety of your trees to remove any overly thick foliage, damaged branches or other debris left over from previous storms. They should also be lifted to a height that is comfortable enough for people to walk under.
Taking these precautions should reduce the chance of your trees being damaged or causing damage when the winds arrive during our notorious Arizona monsoon season!
So how do I prune them?
Having the proper tools to prune your tree is important to the health of the plant material. Limbs up to 1/2 inch in diameter can be pruned with hand pruners. Long-handled pruning loppers can handle limbs up to 1 inch in diameter but a special pruning saw is needed for larger limbs. Hedging shears or power hedge trimmers should not be used to prune trees because they will not be able to make proper cuts and will damage the tree.
The Three Step Method for Properly Trimming a Tree Limb:
The first cut is a shallow notch made on the underside of the branch, up and outside but next to the branch collar. This should be .5 to 1.5 inches deep depending on the size of the branch. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.
The second cut should be outside the first cut. You should cut all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub. The bottom notch stops any stripping bark.
The stub is then cut off just outside the upper branch bark ridge and down just outside the branch collar. It is not recommended by many arborists that you paint the wound as that can impede healing and, at best, is a waste of time and paint.
The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. The callus ring enlarges and encloses the wound over time.*
Despite the damage that these summer storms can cause, there is a beauty and benefit that follows. The monsoon season brings the valley much-needed moisture to help cool those excessive temperatures and assist with water conservation. Take full advantage of the free rainwater and adjust your irrigation schedules to accommodate water saving opportunity.
Hiring the Right Professional to Prepare Your Trees for Arizona Monsoon Season
Did you know that ELS has a complete Arbor Division with certified arborists, GIS mapping, palm tree trimming, certified pest management, tree removals, stump grinding, 3-5 year tree plans and emergency tree services? Contact Scott Cosgrove, ISA Certified Arborist, at [email protected] or 602.243.1106 for more information on how ELS can assist your community today.
Many Arizona communities around the valley are gearing up for winter seeding and cutting back on water usage from the community’s turf areas. September is the best month to start transitioning your lawn for the winter Ryegrass. In addition to being more aesthetically pleasing than a brown lawn from the dormant Bermuda grass, maintaining a healthy green lawn all year provides the added benefit of keeping weeds under control.
It is important that you make the decision early on if you will be transitioning your turf from the Bermuda grass, which goes dormant in the winter, to the lush winter Ryegrass, so that you can properly prepare your lawn for over-seeding. Perennial Ryegrass is preferred to Annual Ryegrass here in Phoenix because its blade is a darker green and a more durable grass to cut. Waiting until your Bermuda lawn goes dormant naturally before over-seeding is not the best idea. Seed germination works best when the season is still a little warmer, making October the perfect month to start planting. There is only a small window of opportunity each year when conditions are ideal, which is why it is so important to plan ahead.
How to Install a Winter Lawn in Phoenix, Arizona
1) Stop fertilizing 4 to 6 weeks prior to over-seeding and cut back on watering.
2) As a recommended practice, dethatch your lawn prior to scalping if needed. Thatch is the dead leaves, stems, and roots under the green part of the grass and just above the soil. Set the dethatcher blades to run at about 1/4” above the soil to help clear out the dead debris and then discard. Be sure to not dig into the soils as you may damage the root structure of your Bermuda grass and you will want for it to come back in the spring.
3) The next step is scalping. This is the process of setting your mower blades to cut the Bermuda grass down to ¼” or ½”. If you are using a rotary mower, ¾” is acceptable. Scalping your lawn allows for the sunlight to get to the Ryegrass to assist with germination.
4) Apply 10 lbs. of seed per 1000 sq. ft. of lawn with a broadcast spreader to evenly spread the seed across the turf area.
5) Adjust your watering schedule to 3 to 4 times per day with light 5 to 7-minute durations to keep the seeds damp. You want to avoid the seeds becoming too dry, or overly saturated during the 2 weeks of the germination process.
6) Apply iron & calcium nitrate at least once before frost.
After about 2 to 4 weeks of growth you can mow the lawn and start reducing the watering schedule to 3 times weekly for about 8-20 minutes depending on the sprinkler head types on your property. Watering schedules can be based on preference on the results you are looking for.
Call ELS
Did you know that ELS has a complete Landscape Maintenance Division that includes full-service maintenance management services, water conservation management, qualified/certified Division Managers, Area Managers and Irrigation Technicians? Contact Ashley Tutelo at [email protected] or 602.243.1106 for more information on how Evergreen Landscaping Services (ELS) can assist your community today.